Guide to Colonial Georgetown in Penang
Modern Georgetown
Historic Georgetown is a uniquely cosmopolitan city where just wondering down the street forces visitors to imbibe centuries of contrasting culture. A hefty portion of Georgetown is taken up with clamouring Chinatown, a seething mass of haranguing hawkers, food vendors, goods stalls and period shophouses.
To get the most from visiting Georgetown put the map away and just get lost in the melee. But if you only have a short amount of time in the city then Pitt Street, Love Lane, King Street, Carnarvon Street or Campbell and Chulia Streets after dark have authentic atmosphere. The hawker stalls around here serve up some of the best food to be found anywhere on the island, and at a fraction of the cost of the expensive eateries of the luxury resorts. More on restaurants in Penang.
History of Georgetown, Penang
British naval officer Captan Francis Light founded the city of Georgetown in 1786. It remained one of the three most important settlements of the region along with Singapore and Malacca. Light Street and Beach Street still feature the best colonial architecture with financial institutions and government buildings found here. Today Georgetown is the second city of Malaysia with a population breaching 600,000.
History buffs will love the Protestant Cemetery where Captain Francis Light is buried along with other important historical figures from Penang’s past such as Thomas Leonowens. The crumbling, vegetation-covered tombs are extremely atmospheric and demonstrates the true age of the settlement compared with the expertly-restored houses of Georgetown’s centre. With 500 graves here it can be quite a spooky place and so perhaps not for timid children after dark.
Georgetown itself was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status as its well-preserved colonial core is bedecked with original 19th century shophouses. Traditional wet markets still play a central role in the lives of citizens who enjoy the communal banter and have not yet warmed to the dubious charms of the sterile Western supermaket.
Colonial atmosphere of Georgetown, Penang
The ambience of Georgetown is best compared to how 1960’s Singapore felt with old customs not yet entirely jettisoned in confrontation with the modern era. And Georgetown springs to life as dusk falls when locals sup at nearby hawker stalls and put the world to rights, perhaps over a few swift drinks.
Georgetown takes a good stay to explore
The southern side of Penang Street leaves Chinatown for a true taste of the subcontinent as Little India takes over. Make-shift restaurants dispense a variety of steaming curries served on traditional banana leaves while devotees pay homage at the impressive Hindu temple. And this enclave is popular with conservationists and heritage enthusiasts with a vibrant throng of shops, astrologers, florists, barbers, millers, spice merchants and money changers.
There are many opportunities to pick up inexpensive souvenirs such as garlands, saris, trinkets, Indian music, sculptures, Punjabi suits, handicrafts and Singhalese silverwares. Fiery Indian thosai, roti canai and biryanis can be found here from restaurants and stalls.
The combination of different religious groups has an often inconvenient corollary that many shops in Georgetown remain closed for a good portion of the week. Most of the town ceases working for Saturday afternoon and does not recommence until Monday morning. Many restaurants also observe this extended Sabbath and the streets can be eerily quiet during this time.
Muslim prayers often echo over the city while Hindu processions, Buddhist monks and Chinese worshippers burning incense to honour their ancestors are all common sights in the street. Many restaurants only open for lunch so sampling some of the Chinese Dim Sum stalls is a great breakfast treat as they are only on sale in the morning. For more on Penang religious sites.
Where to visit in Georgetown, Penang
The Chew Thean Yeang or CTY Aquarium, (82 Burmah Road, Tel:+60 (0)4 226-8797, email: sales@cty-fish.com.my) is the biggest live fish shop in Southeast Asia and makes for a thrilling detour for families with young children. There are countless different exotic species including colourful carp which are bought and sold for a variety of purposes.
Those wanting to get an aerial view of Georgetown can scale the Komtar Scenic View Level at the top of Komtar Tower. (50 Jalan Penang, Tel:+60 (0)4 262 2222, open: 09:00-21:00). Although generally considered a tourist trap, the panoramic views from the top are impressive and you can always give the souvenir shop and mediocre halal restaurant a miss.
Not to be missed, however, are the Clan Jetties (Weld Quay, Pengkalan Weld) which are towards the edge of Georgetown by the sea. Take a stroll down there and discover the traditional huts constructed on stilts over the water’s edge. But watch your step as some of the walkways may not have been repaired in a while and tourists have been known to tumble into the ocean.
Souvenir hunters in Georgetown on the last Sunday of the month are in luck asLittle Penang Street Market brings all manner of artisan craft to Upper Penang Road from 10:00 to 18:00. The market was installed to revitalise the street scene and provide a medium for local designers and manufacturers to sell their wares. Henna and seashell art, clogs, hand-painted garments, calligraphy, handmade jewellery, batik, portraits, live music, and interesting activities. For more on Penang markets.
